There has been a lot of
discussion about multi course menus with the now ubiquitous moniker of a
Degustation or Degu.
It goes like this with new inquiries.
Ring Ring?
Hello. Yes is this
Sunnybrae?
Yes can we help you?
Yes, do you do a degustation
menu?
Well not exactly
Then what’s the style of the menu?
At this point I usually say it’s a long lunch
comprising of five substantial courses spread over the course of the afternoon.
More often than not a
sigh of relief is heard and a booking might be made.
My first memory of the
word degustation comes from the seventies at the beginning of the rise of the “Nouvelle Cuisine” from a French [hey! its a
French word] revolutionary culinary movement reacting vigorously against a slothful post war food binge. They used
it to present the best seasonal balanced regional menus they could muster up, usually
for larger groups to show off their understanding of the balance that centuries
of French gastronomy had provided in a modern manner. They took out the trills
and do dahs, the frilly garnishes, lightened the liaisons and generally made
the experience a soft ride from light to dark from sea to sky to pasture to
orchard with such exquisite nuance and structure that you knew it just couldn’t
last.
It wound up quickly at
the hands of the commercial dilettantes as embarrassingly tiny portions of
neophilic anorexic patterns on a plate.
Country restaurants at
that time had a different structure. Table d’hote. It translates to ‘host’s
table’ In a traditional sense a table d’hote
menu is a multi course meal served with [and this is important] a few choices at a fixed price with the
cutlery for the savoury courses set at the table on arrival.
And this, I have always
felt, was the most convivial format for a country restaurant with a big garden
that only serves lunch to present the best of the season.
Sadly Table d’hote does
not have the same timbre of a
daygoostation or daygoo in this modern era .
But that’s what we do and still believe its
the fairest and most generous way to provide a long lunch in the country. I
have resisted explaining to date how
and why we compose the menu preferring to let you experience it without too
much background information to distract you from your companions.That's what the waiters are for if you need to know the fine details.
Tomorrow’s Menu here
Recycled Cartoon Caption Competition.
Willy “I
like this restaurant”
Wanda “Yes it’s got a scratch and sniff menu”
Tammy “ Is that a Dogustation?”
Feel free to add your own caption.
1 comment:
Caption
Willy
"I always toit it was De Bus Station on Toity Toid St where ya catch de bus to Joisy"
Wanda
"Oh you mean Da Port Authority"
Tammy
" Yeah I picked up a Greyhound there once"
Djoisy
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