Secret Artichoke Business

"It is good for a man to eat thistles and to remember that he is an ass”
So wrote E.S Dallas in Kettner’s Book of the table 1877.
“But the artichoke” he continued “is the best of thistles, and the man who enjoys it has the satisfaction of feeling that he is an ass of taste.”

We’re talking globe artichoke here, Cynara Scolymus not the equally delicious tuber Jerusalem artichoke Helianthus tuberosus often dubbed the fartychoke for its antisocial properties. To add to the confusion there is also the Chinese artichoke Stachys Sieboldii another edible tuber of the mint family.
Globe artichokes have been relegated to the too hard basket of many home cooks for too long.
Don’t be intimidated they are versatile, easy to prepare and have a very different flavour to the jars of preserved artichoke hearts available in the deli.
A good way to learn how to use an artichoke is to grow one, where the full cycle of culinary possibility is revealed.
They are not difficult to grow; it’s a thistle after all.
Artichokes arrived with the first fleet and were planted on Norfolk Island.
Victoria with a long cool growing period provides the ideal climate for this splendid architectural addition to the perennial border or vegetable garden and grows 90% of commercial crops. Ironically Sydney where they are harder to grow has the highest demand.
Most local varieties originate from the Green Globe; the shape can vary between spherical, ovoid or cylindrical. There are also pointy purple Roman varieties available.
At first large leaves emerge with a strong central flower stalk crowned by what the Italians have affectionately named ‘la mamma’ the largest flower head. As the plant matures, smaller heads the figli or children develop between the leaves down to the tiny the nipoti or nephews the size of a small coin. Commercial crops only concentrate on the matriarch, with the little ones considered too costly to harvest.
Modern commercial varieties such as Global Star mature early and are used as an annual increasing the market value. These are often protected by Plant Variety Rights that require the growers to pay a royalty to the owners of the rights. The concept of P.V.R. is getting a little scary because we have the ppotential to loose good flavoursome cultivars to an increasingly homogenised market.
Whether at the market or in the garden play close attention to the heads, they should have a pleasant distinctive aroma, a sign of being freshly picked. Tightly formed, firm, heavy without a bump on the side, a telltale sign that the hairy choke or immature flower has started to form. At this stage they may be eaten raw with the outer leaves removed. Leave about 15 centimetres of stalk attached, peel it and the core of the stalk reveals a creamy white often-discarded bonus of pure artichoke bliss.
Most of the bitterness is in the stringy skin and outer leaves so don’t lick your fingers after preparation.
As the flower bud matures another seldom seen speciality is revealed, the large solid base or fond often described in classical french recipes. Summer irrigated crops yield the largest bases. These provide a natural container to hold your favourite toppings.
When the plant has finished budding, cut it back to ground level and about 3 new plants will emerge. Divide the plant with a bit of the base root attached and before you know it you will have enough to share and swap with your neighbours.
Artichokes contain a compound Cynarin that for about 70% of us makes the taste of what follows sweeter for a short time. Cynarin also has many medicinal properties including the lowering of cholesterol. Avoid serving artichokes at wine tastings, as they will alter the taste. Frying reduces this effect.
Cynar the Italian aperitif made from globe artichokes makes a good change for those that love Campari or other bitter drinks.
Cardoons Scolymus Cardunculus a close relative to the globe artichoke is another neglected vegetable grown mainly for the large blanched stalks. They need to be peeled unless very young. In Spain the small spiny heads are used as a substitute for rennet in cheese making.

HOW TO GET THE MOST FROM YOUR THISLES
Remove the layers of tough outer leaves, trim the top, peel the stalk and rub with lemon. This is common to most recipes.

If they have the telltale bump indicating a choke, cook them in your preferred way first and then cut them in half to reveal the hairy choke: Now softened, the choke is easy to remove with a knife or spoon.

Raw
For very young ones only. Remove the outer leaves peel the stalk and finely slice them. Dress with your best olive oil, lemon juice, sea-salt and freshly ground pepper. They make a delicious salad with Parmigiano Reggiano young raw broad beans and radicchio conveniently also in season.
Boiled
After cleaning, cook them for about 10 minutes in plenty of unsalted water to which you have added the juice and squeezed body of a couple of lemons. Place a plate on top to keep them under water this stops them from discolouring. A skewer will easily pierce them when cooked. Toss in a vinaigrette to stop further discolouration.
They marry well with olives, capers and garlic or perhaps preserved lemon and samphire.
Fried
Clean as above and press gently to open the flower heads. Fry the whole flower and stalk at about 140oC for about 3 minutes in olive oil. Remove. Just before serving sprinkle with a little water to and turn the oil up to about 180oC. Fry again till the outer leaves are crisp and the centre is soft to a sharp skewer. Be careful they can splash hot oil. Drain onto kitchen paper and serve immediately with a spiced salt. A speciality from the old Jewish quarter in Rome.
Castroville in California is the undisputed Artichoke capital of North America. Roadhouse specials featuring ‘Choke Chips’ the deep-fried stalks abound. The annual artichoke festival is held each May. In 1949 a young starlet Marilyn Monroe was crowned the first artichoke queen. Castroville has never recovered from the visit with Busby Berkley-like artichoke formations of Marilyn look-alikes gracing the parade.
Braised
Clean as above, cut the stalk off at the base and gently open up the flower heads. Lightly stuff with a mixture of parsley, lemon rind, garlic and soft seasoned breadcrumbs. Drizzle with vinaigrette made with a fine olive oil, add the stalks to the tray and braise tightly covered in a moderate oven for about 30 minutes. Remove the cover, baste with the pan juices and cook with the cover off for 10 minutes to crisp the tops. As your confidence grows vary the fillings but use restraint, it is the artichoke that should shine.
Over Hot Coals
A Sicilian speciality. Choose large heads but do not remove the outer leaves.
Cut across the top removing the top 2cm, and remove the stalk. Gently open the flower heads, brush with lemon juice or white wine and insert a mixture of garlic, oregano, salt and pepper between the leaves. Drizzle lightly with olive oil and when the barbeque coals have died down to a gentle glow, place them directly into the coals cut side up until the outer leaves are completely charred. To eat them discard the burned outer leaves and enjoy the tender smoky bottoms of the remaining leaves.
For the Base or Fond
Best at the end of the season when the bases are quite large, about the size of a saucer. Slice and discard the top half, cook in more heavily acidulated water with the mandatory plate on top to keep them submerged. They are done when a skewer easily pierces through the base. [about 25 mins] Cool slightly and peel away the top, choke and stringy skin of the base. They will all be soft enough to gently remove. Brush with lemon juice and olive oil. Season and top with waxy potatoes roasted with garlic, a poached egg and Taleggio or perhaps fungi.
For Risotto
They can be sautéed raw at the beginning with the shallots releasing the most flavour or they can be added cooked halfway through the preparation.
Once the beautiful deep mauve flowers have started to appear they belong in a vase.


Spare a thought for *artichokes
They haven’t many chums
Most people go for sparrowgrass
Or exotic fancy plums.

*Apologies to Rhubarb and the unknown poet.


I wrote this for The Age about 2006?